Friday, March 8, 2013

Why the Weird Name?

I was having a tough time trying to decide what to call this thing. I wanted it to be about surfing, etc. but didn't necessarily want "surf" in the title. I wrote down some words but nothing really moved me. Then, yesterday I was driving to pick up my son and this scene from Big Wednesday popped into my head. I checked, and the name was available so there you have it.



My friends and I saw Big Wednesday in 1978 at the Villa Theater in Orange, CA when it first came out. We were just learning how to surf at the time and this movie was simply magical. The surf scenes were shot beautifully for the time and the story of friends coming of age made us 14-15 year old kids want to become surfers that much more. I have it on DVD and watch it once in a while to reminisce. I always hoped they would do a sequel someday but since Jan Michael Vincent became a total mess with alcohol, I imagine they couldn't do it. Very sad.

Well, those friends I mentioned don't surf anymore. As the years went by, most of my buddies that surfed gradually just dropped off. Some took up golf, some moved out of state, and some I guess, just got tired of it. These days, the majority of the time I surf alone. However I do meet a lot of great people in the water from all walks of life. I still get as excited when those Santa Ana winds blow and there's a swell as I did when I was 16. It's hard to comprehend for my wife and kids who don't surf, but they know how much I enjoy it so they just go with it.

Being unemployed for the last few months has sucked for the most part, but it has enabled me to surf during the week and avoid the big crowds. I've had a few epic days down at Oceanside Harbor - head high and offshore until late morning. San O has always been consistent . Blackies has provided some great days as well. I really like the regular crew there for the most part. There always has to be at least one a-hole in the water. I'll get into that at a later time.

No comments: